KULLU DUSSEHRA: A SPECTACULAR ASSEMBLY OF HIMALYAN GODS
by K.L. Noatay
(OCR- machine typing –e&oe)
The venue is DhalPur Maidan - a fairlY large rolling ground
on one end of the main Kullu town, which is located on the right bank of river
and the occasion is a- yearly fair. The Place is approximately 530 km from
Delhi; 240 km from Shimla; 90 km from Joginder Nagar and 300 km from Pathankot with direct buses and taxies
available aplenty. A daily flight also operates from Delhi via Chandigarh and
Shimla which lands at Bhuntar, just about 10 km short of the main town.
Kulllu with an
altitudte of 1224 m, has a pleasant whether during October. i.e. Dussehra days.
ln case of unexpected rain, hail or snow the area may become quite cold and the
visitors should, therefore better come with adequate winter garments. Dussehra
an important lndian festivel symbolizes the return of Shri Ram, to Ayodhya, on
completion of his 14 years of exile after vanquishing Ravana, the demon king of
Lanka. The Dussehra of Kullu has an interesting folklore.
During 17th century, Raghuvanshi Rajputs, reverently called 'Thakurs',
ruled Kullu. One of their scions, named Jagat Singh, ascended the throne in
1637 A.D. A brave and kind young Jagat, .got misinformed by someone that a particular
brahmin among the subjects Possessed certain valuable pearls. He ordered the
Brahmin io deposit the valuable pearls in the treasury. To escape his wrath the
poor man committed self- immolation along with all members of his family.
Leaving a curse on Jagat Sinqh who fell seriously ill. A minister named Kishan
Dass advised him to obtain the ancient idols of Shri Ram and Sita from Ayodhya,
install them in his royal palace and worship.
Jagat Singh acted
accordinglY and installed the idols obtained the idols from Ayodhya and installed
in his palace. The event coincided with
the Dussehra day. The Raja, further bequeathed the governance of the kingdom to
Shri Ram, the idol, and declared it as the governing deity of the State giving it the title, 'Raghunathji' or
'Thakur'. The Palace became 'Raghunath Mandir' and the roYal word "Raghunath
Pur". Further, the king himself become the 'Pujari', or the caretaker
Priest of the deity, so established. The above Penance rejuvenated Jagat
Sirgh's health as well as morale. On hearing the above development all the
local PeoPle carrying their respective village deities converged to
'RaghunathPur to PaY obeisance to 'Raghunathji', the new Thakur or Raja.
Gradually this became a regular ritual and called "Kullu Dussehra'.
AccordinglY on Vijay Dashmi or the normal Dussehra daY,
after usual worship, the Raja-Pujari conveys 'Raghunathji'to Dhalpur and
installs it in a traditional wooden chariot catled 'Raghunathji's Rath', which
remains parked in one corner of the Maidan. The deities from various villages accompanied
by their respective 'Kardars' i.e. worshippers incharge, come to Dhalpur one by
one. The villagers; dancing, singing and chanting loudly 'Raghunath ji ki jai',
'Sita Mayya ki jai', 'Hanumanji ki jai', etc.; follow their deities. Their traditional
musicians, beating drums, blowing trumpets et al precede the deities
procession. These'subject deities' pay obeisance to'Raghunathji' installed on
the'Rath'. Once allof them have so paid respect to 'Raghunathji', the'Rath' is
pulled by the devotees, with special floral ropes, to the middle of the Miadan.
Thereupon the fair is declared open. lt continues for nearly one week. This
year, it is likely to be organised and celebtrated from 11th October, 1997
onwards. The villagers of entire Kullu and adjoining valleys come to the fair
in their colourful traditional costumes. They keep dancing and singing praise of
'Raghunathji' and the respective deities and the folklore intermittently. Cultura!
troupe from all parts of the Pradesh come to the festival and entertain the
people with their choicest folk songs and dances. Though, historically,
Dussehra being celebrated annually since 1637 A.D., it has received special
recognition as a State fete in 1966, when the hill areas of the erstwhile
Punjab, including Kullu, were merged with the old Himachal Union Territory to
form 'vishal' Himacha! Pradesh. Late Thakur Devi Singh of Lahaul (an MLA in the
'sixties' an'd later a Forest Minister in the'seventies') had strived hard to
make this function a global fete. The function accordingty acquired international
status when a cultural troupe from Romania participated in 1973. The Russian
troupe started participating from 1976 onwards. The festival is also of immense
economic importance to the populace of Kullu and adjoining valleys. They bring
their agricultural and historical produce like mash (black pulse), apples,
walnuts, honey and homespun items like woollen shawls, pullovers, gloves, socks
etc. ln exchanqe thev buv machine-sDun
fabrics, utencils, cosmetics etc., modern luxury items
brought by traders from the plains. The people of Lahaul & Spiti and Ladakh
also came to the fair in large numbers to avail of the festival. ln olden days
traders from Tibet, China, Yarkand, Kandhar etc. too used (o come to the fair,
bringing pashmina wool, gold and golden ornaments, precious pearls and stones
and barter these for salt, rice, tea etc. On the lastday of the celebration; the Raghunathji's Rath is pulled
by the devotees further fown - to a point closest to the right bank of river Beas.
Here dry grass and brushwood are burnt in the same way as in the plains, to
mark the end of evils like the ' one committed by Ravana. Simultaneously one
buffalo, one goat, one pig, one crab, one chicken and one fish are slaughtered
for sacrifice. Thereafter, the 'Rath' is pulled back to its permanent parking
spot and the village dieties pay their closing homage to 'Raghunathji' - before
His retreat to RaghunathMandir. And, then, the village deities and villagers
too disperse - slowly and jubilanfly. A word about the people. The ' Kulwis'
are self-respecting graceful folks. They are respectful, even affectionate -
towards well-meaning outsiders, but tough towards those who take undue
liberties. Same is true about the police as well. The Govt. of H.P. . makes elaborate
arrangements for the transport, accommodation and entertainment of the visitors
coming to witness the Kullu Dussehra. The requirement is met by the large
number of hotels, motels and guest houses recently raised in the valley in
addition to the old rest houses and circuit horses.
by K.L. Noatay
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